Today we are heading to the Stari Grad (Old Town) of Dubrovnik. I wake
up at 4am because it's so stinking hot, open the windows in our room,
then close them again 20 minutes later because I'm being eaten alive by
mozzies. Wake up for real at 7am, and head out to the Old Town.
We are staying in Gruz, one of the three main areas outside the Old Town
itself. It is about a 3.5km walk from where we are staying, which we
manage to knock over in about half an hour.
Dubrovnik was MOST recently in the news, in Australia at least, for
being the place at which Australian backpacker Brit Lapthorne went
missing and was subsequently found dead, and less recently but recent
enough, for being the target of aggressions by the Serbian & Montenegrin
army in 1991-92. So when you tell people you are going to Dubrovnik you
usually don't get a "Have fun!" wish, more of a "Be careful!"
In spite of this, Dubrovnik definitely feels like a perfectly safe
place, and, touch wood, we have not had any significant problems here at
all. The Old Town is still a very pretty place, although it still
clearly bears the scars of it's past. This is ironic, as from what I can
tell, the Republic of Dubrovnik seems to have existed for many hundreds
of years without actually begin involved in many serious violent
encounters. Those massive walls would have helped. We did the walking
tour of the Town Walls, complete with pre-recorded audio tour guide
device. One of the points that kept coming up was that Dubrovnik had
always been very politically savvy and diplomatic, and had always
managed to work out situations without ever having to resort to
violence, an example that springs to mind is the "donations" they paid
to the Turkish Empire during their time of strength, both to maintain
their independence and acquire protection of the Turkish forces. Whether
this amounts to diplomacy or just paying the right people I'm not sure.
Maybe that's what diplomacy is.
The walk around the walls is supposed to take about an hour, but because
we keep stopping to listen to the audio guide, and take photos, it takes
us about 2 hours. I had soaked my hat in Onofrio's Big Fountain (Onofrio
was a clever chap who managed to route water from a fresh spring 8 miles
away into these fountains), and it was bone-dry by the halfway point of
the walk. Still it was very interesting, and you can see more clearly
from up here which houses and buildings survived the 91-92 attack, and
which have been rebuilt. The new tiles are a lot brighter and more
angular than the older ones, also they have no moss etc. growing on them
(visibly, yet).
St Blaise, the saint to whom the whole town is dedicated, appears many
times in the audio tour. If I remember correctly, there were a number of
Venetian ships who had made anchor in the harbour at one point, and came
ashore to Dubrovnik under the guise of stocking up on supplies for a
long journey east. But the real reason was to examine the City walls for
the best points to attack when they invaded. Apparently St Blaise
appeared in a dream to the Priest or Bishop or whatever they had at the
time and warned of the Venetians' true intentions, and the enemy was
repelled. I will need to find more details on this story as it seemed a
bit patchy on the guide.
After the wall tour, we head down and grab some lunch. We had been given
some Peach Iced Tea the day before when we arrived at our accommodation,
and I quite liked it (real men drink Peach Iced Tea), so I bought a
bottle of that to have with my lunch. I think I must have been pretty
dehydrated because I drank a litre of the stuff at lunch alone.
After lunch we continued finding all the other points of interest, and
oops the power's just gone out in our room. Everyone laughed at me when
I took my shake-n-charge torch on holidays, but WHO'S LAUGHING WITH A
LIGHT SOURCE NOW! HA HA HA!
Ok the power's back, so I'll continue. We had picked up a map with
points of interest marked on it, from the turistico office, and
continued around these. Interestingly, there is a Serbian Orthodox
church inside the city - big fences and gates around that one. We also
saw the Lazareto, a building used, among other purposes, as a quarantine
centre, where incoming visitors were kept under observation for 40 days
for any signs of disease. This must have been torture looking out on
this beautiful beach below for 40 days, being cooped up in this little
building.
We started looking around for dinner at this point, this place has a lot
of sidewalk spruikers, advertising why their restaurant is the best.
Walking past one of them, the guy says "beautiful people, can I get you
a table, where are you from?" They always ask where you are from, so
they can bring up a common point of interest and make you feel like
their friend. In this example, when we said we were from Australia, he
started talking about our soccer team. This can backfire sometimes, as
we saw with another guy who said "where are you from?" to which the girl
replied "Finland" "Ah, Finland...good" was the reply.
I felt a bit sorry for the guy who finally won us over for his
restaurant, he thought we were American at first, then we told him we
were Australian and he started recommending all his big steaks to me,
obviously hoping that we would eat up a storm. As it was Celina had a
salad and I had spaghetti, one of our cheapest dinners as it turned out.
We stuck around for a while longer until the sun started to go down, got
ourselves some night photos then started the walk back home. I think the
enforcement of road rules around this area at this time of night (I'm
only talking ~21:00) is pretty lax, as people drive like absolute
lunatics. We managed to make it home in one piece though (well two
pieces as there are two of us) to carry on tomorrow, to return to Zagreb.
6248 - that thing sticking out of the cliff over my left shoulder was
the setup for the Red Bull Cliff Diving Championship - nutters!

6297 - people must have been shorter in the olden days

6337 - spot the ones that were damaged

6353 - someone set a cat amongst the pigeons, literally! Next I'm hoping
to see a dog eating someone's homework.

6385 - very pretty at night
